Living on Tenerife: Have I Become One of those Ex-pats Who Criticizes Everything?

A comment on Andy’s Real Tenerife blog made me stop and think for a moment. It was a very honest comment about development on the island which concluded with the statement ‘I hate Brits who live here and then just criticize everything.’

I found myself nodding in agreement one second and the next, remembering the blog I’d just written moaning about Spanish TV scheduling, wondered in horror if I’d become one of those Brits.

When we first moved here there was one paper in particular which regularly pissed me off. Most editions usually included a moan about one fiesta or another – they were too loud and too boisterous. Sometimes it was suggested that even the Canarians didn’t like them.
You don’t have to spend much time here to realise that a suggestion like this is nonsense – fiestas are put on by Canarios for Canarios (everybody is welcome of course).
Every time I read these pieces which basically wanted to change the culture, I had an overwhelming urge to shout ‘Why on earth do you live here if you don’t like it?’

I regularly read threads on various forums  from people moaning about aspects of Tenerife, most of which are flavoured by personal experiences of the area that they are familiar with rather than Tenerife as a whole.

When I read ones which say things like ‘Tenerife doesn’t have any decent restaurants’ I think ‘why do you say Tenerife when you obviously don’t really mean Tenerife; you clearly mean in the geographically limited area that you happen to frequent?’ and wonder why they live here or, if they’re a visitor, return for their jollies year after year.

And then I think of this blog – I moan here…a lot. I criticise politics, business practices, roadworks, lack of environmental awareness, insularity and all sorts. Anyone reading it could easily think of me as one of those Brits who criticises everything and wonder why I continue to live here.

But I’m not…honest.  At least I don’t think I am. I love the island and the culture – I’ll be the last to call for fiesta fun to be curtailed. Seventy five percent of the time I write about the things which I believe make Tenerife a very special place to stay and visit.

On the other hand, Tenerife is my home, the place where I live and work and just like I did in Britain, I take an active interest in politics and business practices. And also like living in Britain, there are some aspects of living in Tenerife that I think could be improved. This blog is an outlet to vent my frustrations about those.

But the comment did make me think about perceptions, so I’m going to make a concerted effort to tone down the moaning because I really don’t want to become one of those Brits who criticises everything.

So it’ll be all sweetness and light from now on…until something really winds me up…that’ll probably be tomorrow then.

Good News for Puerto de la Cruz – And What Timing…

At first I couldn’t figure it out. My maths might be a tad rusty, but something just didn’t seem to add up.

1: In September, Fernando Cabrera, President of ASHOTEL, warned that British holiday firms might not send their clients to Puerto de la Cruz unless drastic measures were taken to transform the town.

The warning completely ignored the fact that improvements had already taken place and seemed to be likely to cause Puerto more harm than good. It was another political nail in the coffin of Puerto’s mayor and her party.

2: In October a motion of censure was called in Puerto and Lola Padrón was deposed to be replaced by Marcos Brito of the Coalición Canaria party who, despite never having been chosen by the people of Puerto, has managed to be mayor 4 times (one previous time was another motion of censure – seems to be a neat trick of his).

This turn of events, taking into account ASHOTEL’s warning, seemed incredible. Critics of Marcos Brito say that he and his supporters are anti-women and anti-gay and represent a step backwards. They have in the past accused Lola of trying to turn Puerto de la Cruz into Playa de las Américas – so that should give you an idea about their attitude towards tourism.

In essence a party which was clearly trying to move Puerto forward was replaced by a party which locally still subscribes to the sort of politics associated with Franco. Not exactly a progressive development.

To me it made ASHOTEL appear at the very least politically naive. It seemed as though they were putting the boot into Puerto at the worst possible time and, by making a statement which may have helped finish off the party who were trying to drag the town into the 21st century, at complete odds with their assertations that Puerto needed to modernise.

But the light has just been turned on and… drum roll please… here comes the good news.

3: Today, the Tenerife Government announced that 31.5 million euros is going to be invested in a package to improve Puerto de la Cruz over the next few years. The package includes renovation of some hotels.

Money is also going to be invested in Puerto’s neighbouring municipalities of Los Realejos and La Orotova. The President of the Cabildo, Ricardo Melchior (Coalición Canaria party) shared the good news with the three mayors, Isaac Valencia (Coalición Canaria party) of La Orotava, Oswaldo Amaro (Coalición Canaria party) of Los Realejos and dear little Marcos Brito (Coalición Canaria party) of Puerto de la Cruz.

Well, look at that… they’re all from the same political party. That must be nice for them.

And what a fortunate turn of events for Marcos Brito who might just be seen as the man who has rejuvenated Puerto’s fortunes.  If the announcement had been made just over two weeks ago he wouldn’t have been in power and the news may just have saved Lola Padrón and her party.

Wasn’t it serious bad luck for her that all the above events took place in the order they did?

As they say, the first rule of comedy is… timing.

Supporting Puerto de la Cruz’ First Woman Mayor – Politics on Tenerife

On Saturday as most people headed to the beach to try to cool down with the help of the Atlantic Ocean, Andy and I stood in blistering heat chanting ‘NO A LA MOCIÓN, NO A LA MOCIÓN,’ and ‘QUEREMOS A LOLA’ with somewhere between six to eight hundred other supporters of Puerto de la Cruz’ first ever female mayor, Lola Padron.

Lots of placards expressed people's feelings.

It’s been fourteen years since the last time I took part in a political rally. The last one involved wearing gorilla suits outside the houses of parliament and being introduced to the Right Honourable Tony Benn, this one was on a much smaller scale.

What was particularly nice about it was that people weren’t in Plaza Europa to protest, but to declare their support for Lola Padron. Whereas a protest a couple of weeks ago by people opposed to Lola had involved a handful of old guys shouting angrily outside the town hall, this show of support include men and women of all ages, singing and chanting at the tops of their voices to let Lola know that her attempts to improve the town weren’t unappreciated.

Lola came out of the town hall to meet her supporters for a short time before going back inside and re-emerging on the balcony, clearly emotional. It was impossible not to be moved by the event and be stirred by Lola’s inspirational and heartfelt speech.

A Show of Solidarity (Lola's the one in red)

The funny thing is that what initially pricked our interest in what was happening politically in Puerto wasn’t because we particularly supported Lola or her party – we didn’t know much about the politics of the town to be honest. It was because of a TV programme on Mi Tierra TV. I’ve mentioned this programme before, but the vitriol that was being spouted on this programme left a really bad taste in the mouth. Every time we watched it, we felt ourselves mouthing the same word – fascists.

It’s ironic that a programme supporting a political party should actually arouse such emotions that it makes you start listening to what their opposition has to say, but that’s what Mi Tierra achieved.  It helped convert us to supporting their political enemies. Smart eh?

What’s going on here is grass roots politics. It feels like a battle between the old order and the new. A move from politics that belong in the past where towns were run by which family had the most money and influence to council leaders being chosen because of their ideals, not because of who they are. Some people don’t like that.
You know what one of the insults levelled at Lola was? That she was trying to turn Puerto into Playa de las Américas. That tells you what these guys think of the visitors who bring their money to Tenerife.

Politics for me have become very simplistic here. I look at Lola’s eyes and listen to what she has to say and I see and hear sincerity. I do the same with the opposition and I see hatred and hear insults – it makes it very easy to choose which to support.

Which is why on a searing hot Saturday afternoon we did a ‘Citizen Smith’ and chanted and sang (or hummed along anyway) with the good people of Puerto at a political rally – by the way what’s Spanish for ‘Power to the People?’

Support for Lola Padron outside the town hall

Be on your guard in Puerto de la Cruz, there’s a foul wind about.

I had the misfortune last night to turn on the TV just in time to see MI Tierra TV station screening another disgraceful example of ‘pitchfork politics’ in Puerto de la Cruz.

Once again at the centre of the unpleasantness was the man who is unable to accept he is no longer mayor, Marcus Brito.

The protest was in relation to the opening, or delayed opening, of the renovated Cofradía de Pescadores building near Puerto’s harbour. Ironic that Marcus Brito was at the centre of the protest considering the building had lain almost derelict, like many of Puerto’s older buildings, for years under his leadership, but ‘his protesters’ seemed to have forgotten that little fact.

The reason I mention this is that this man and his mob (and I use the word mob deliberately) worry me.

Their politics are spiteful and potentially dangerous and their continual attempts to destabilize the council are not in the best interests of Puerto de la Cruz. But that doesn’t seem to bother them in their quest to regain power.

Mi Tierra TV was there to film the protest, of course. Any time I watch Mi Tierra TV, my heart drops. It specializes in personal attacks against politicians and people it doesn’t like – focusing on personal appearance and even insulting the parents of politicians. It isn’t pleasant. It’s anti women’s rights and anti gay. In fact fascism is the word that springs to mind when I watch Mi Tierra TV.

And according to Wikipedia it’s financed, surprise, surprise, by Marcus Brito.

I don’t know how much non-Spanish speakers keep up to date with politics in Puerto de la Cruz, but if you’re an ‘extranjero’ resident here, believe me it’s worth keeping your eyes on proceedings because you get the feeling these people want our money, but they don’t really want us.

I’ve just read an interview from a couple of years ago where Brito complains about another TV company because of its attacks against him (Brito doesn’t appear to understand irony), he goes to great lengths to emphasize the fact the company is German owned, as though that made its points less valid. A politician in Icod de los Vinos had her integrity questioned by his TV company because, get this, she came from the mainland!!!

Their approach is so distasteful that the UPCC (Union of Media Professionals) once issued a statement denouncing Mi Tierra TV for bringing the honor and professionalism of journalists in the north of Tenerife into question.

Thankfully a lot of people seem to have the measure of them and there are plenty of ‘denunciations’ to be found if you look, but nevertheless the idea of this man getting back into power really worries me, so I’m continuing to keep an eye on his political shenanigans.

If you live in Puerto you should too.

The Old Town of Puerto de la Cruz – It’s Looking Good Now…Thanks to Lola

I had some business around Puerto’s old town this morning. It’s always a pleasure to wander along the narrow streets and through the picturesque squares, but recently it has become even more enjoyable.

Puerto's small harbour

The Mayor, Lola Padrón, and the council have undertaken an ambitious project to spruce up the historic old buildings, many of which been looking tired and run down, with cracked façades and peeling plaster ever since we moved to Puerto.

Not so now. Now they’re looking as good as new, lovingly renovated in keeping with the original style.

Casa Iriarte

In fact the entire old town is looking great and the 30+ temperatures and sunshine today showed it at it’s best to the groups of visitors who walked the recently cobbled street between the Ayuntamiento and the harbour admiring the old architecture and wooden balconies and stopping to take the obligatory photo beside the statue of the fish wife beside the harbour.

This renovation is a real boost for the image of Tenerife’s original tourist resort and for tourism in general.

Casa Aduana - the old customs house

Why then, when I turn on the TV every night do I see the same Mr Angry, gesticulating aggressively at the camera, slagging off everything that the current council is trying to do? This guy has got to be three heartbeats away from a thrombo; his blood pressure must be higher than the Petronas Twin Towers. Venom positively oozes from his lips. There is a Spanish phrase which springs to mind every time I see his angry face – un hombre antipático. He is also a fervent supporter of the previous mayor.
Personally I would never place my trust with anyone whose tactics are disruptive and destructive. These sorts of people have their own interests at heart, not those of the people they purport to represent.

Classy facade for a hairdressers

When we first moved to Puerto nearly six years ago, we were charmed by the place, but there were a lot of little things which let it down; gave it a tired look. I mentioned the peeling façades of the old buildings, but there were other little things like the waterfall at Playa Jardín being broken for two years without a cascade. There were signs of neglect all over the town which wouldn’t have taken a lot of effort to put right.

I’m not suggesting that a pretty façade is the most important issue a mayor has to think about when running a town, but when a lot of your revenue comes from tourism it should at least be up there on the agenda. I didn’t feel that was the case until Lola took over the mantle a couple of years ago.

Puerto's looking good Lola - Nil Bastardi Carborundum

As far as I’m concerned Mr Angry can shake his fist at the camera till he’s blue in the face, but the photos with this blog don’t have a political allegiance, so I’ll let them show the sort of job that Lola Padrón is doing to improve Puerto de la Cruz.

Hello, Hello, Hello…What’s All This Then?

A couple of days ago I read a report in one of the English language newspapers about the council in Icod de los Vinos being responsible for posting a couple of policeman outside the ‘El Mariposario’ butterfly park, who were apparently questioning visitors.

It would be a 'crime' if the park was forced to close

The paper didn’t mention what they were questioning visitors about, but it was suggested that the police presence was meant to deter potential customers from entering the park because of something to do with political infighting between council factions.

God knows how preventing people from entering the park would benefit the town of Icod in any way, shape or form. Quite the opposite in fact as the park is its only other tourist attraction after the Millennium Drago Tree. However, unfortunately this sort of ‘banana republic’ pitchfork politics isn’t uncommon on the Canary Islands where some individuals in power can take courses of action which seem to suit their own private agendas rather than those of their constituents. (Okay I’ve reread that and thought ‘so what makes them different from politicians anywhere else?’ I suppose the difference is that here it can take the form of little more than schoolyard antics)

We’d written an article about El Mariposario a couple of months ago and, as we were passing yesterday, decided to drop in with a couple of copies of the magazine in which it was published. It was also a good excuse to see if there really were policeman outside.

Lo and behold as we approached the entrance there was, as reported, a local boy in blue standing there.
Curious as to whether he was going to question us, I stood back from the entrance and took a picture of him standing at the entrance…nothing; no reaction.

Andy and I walked through the entrance to the reception and all he did was smile
“Qué tal’ (roughly translated ‘allright mate’), he said as we passed him.
A couple of moments later he followed. Although I think that was because it was drizzling outside and he was interested in talking to a dark eyed local girl standing in the foyer.

As Andy handed over the magazines to the receptionist, I turned back to the policeman.
“Is there a problem?” I smiled at him, playing happy daft. “Nobody’s trying to kill the butterflies are they?”
“No,” the dark eyed girl laughed. “He’s a friend.”
“There’s no problem,” the policeman smiled. “Everything is fine.”
“It’s just that I read in the paper that there was some sort of problem.”
“Oh, it’s just …” the dark eyed girl smiled and rolled her eyes. “…It’s just little politics.”

I don't think it's just the butterflies who are living in a cocoon

I like the Policia Local. The ones I’ve had dealings with have all been friendly and helpful. They’re a bit like old fashioned British Community policeman, like young versions of (if you’re old enough to remember) Dixon of Dock Green. This one was no different. If he was there at the behest of some politician’s puerile request, he looked apologetic and almost embarrassed about the whole thing.
As we left, both him and the girls bade us a ‘hasta luego’.

God, and maybe the ‘odd’ (odd being the operative word) politician in Icod, knows exactly why the policeman was there.

‘Little politics’ the girl had said. That’s exactly what it seems to be.